Monday, February 21, 2011

Half of a bushing install



I'd finally had enough of seeing the urethane bushings I had purchased last year sitting over in a corner and decided to put them in. I had figured out in my mind that I would dedicate 1 day to the task and that would be sufficient. Now, I'll never know what childbirth feels like, but, I assume it's similar to removing radius arm bushing bolts on a landrover after the vehicle's been driven for months without a service.


Not an impossible job for one man, but time consuming, hence why I took a weekend to only get the front done. It'd be better if friends were lured in on the premise of free beer.
I give it a 7/10 for difficulty

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Dum-te-dum-dum.....

Also spent the last fortnight installing this thingy, updates and pictures to follow soon

Fueling issues


So my fuel regulator's been bad for a while. It was leaking diesel at a pretty alarming rate so I was avoiding any driving lest I burn my investment to a crisp (literally).

The new replacement has cost me 87.50 as opposed to $1,325.20 locally. The new parts came after ALOT of to-ing and fro-ing with a usually reliable company that I always order parts with, it also seemed to have come on the slow boat from China as I've been waiting for it for well over a month, but it paid off in the end.

The install itself was fairly easy as my engine bay is stripped to bare bones anyway, took about 15 minutes in total. remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the old unit, release the fuel lines and sender clip, then reverse with the new unit as it comes fully assembled (pictured above)
and you're sorted!!

Below are some other goodies I got for cheap 37.50 a pair straight out of the UK

;P

What's this then?




I've finished my H20 support!

After months of contemplation as well as reading informative sites like RBR racing's I decided to make the jump. Water injection information on diesels in Barbados is somewhat non-existent. I know one guy who runs it on his truck to rave reports but there's no progressive controller or sizing methodology.

Even in the forum-o-sphere it doesn't seem to be that common on landrovers, so I'm in a bit of uncharted territory here.

The main purpose of water injection for those of you not yet aware, is to facilitate higher boost, as well as more advanced ignition timing (on gasolenes) thereby allowing you to make more power. The integration of water injection by itself, does not make more power, it only allows you to squeeze more power out safely. Being a bit of a sneaky bastard, I've opted not to let anyone (except the entire internet) know that I'm running it.

I chose the AEM 1 gallon kit purchased from an aftermarket performance shop here, because of the progressive control and perceived value for money. there are other, more fancified systems on the market, but when you're on a shoestring budget like myself, the AEM will suffice.

Their kit comes with
  1. A one gallon tank
  2. 6mm nylon tubing
  3. plastic push-to-fit fittings
  4. a check valve
  5. a generic pump
  6. a progressive pump controller
  7. an injector
  8. 3 differently sized injector nozzles S,M,L
I decided that everything had to be in the most discreet locations in order not to be detected so I put the tank inside of the cubby box that sits in the centre of the seats, the pump was installed in the battery space under the passenger seat, the check valve I hid under the intake manifold, and the injector I mounted in the piping I used to replace my EGR valve, fairly sharp if I do say so myself.

On the advice of an established gasolene engine builder, I opted for the smallest nozzle to start
Linkwith,